I love to use color in my work. I may wear all black every day, but I love color. That’s why I decided to try enamelling. There’s only so much you can do with gemstones to add color anyway, and enamelling has been used in jewelry to do just that for thousands of years. The type of enamel work I’m talking about is vitreous enamel. It’s pretty much colored glass ground up so fine that it’s like sand or sugar. You put the glass grains on a backing material – gold, copper or fine silver for jewelry – then put it in a kiln or hit it with a torch. This melts the grains of glass and fuses them together to make a smooth surface. It seems like there’s as many different ways to use enamel on jewelry as there are for using paint on a canvas, and just like with paint, it can be simple or complex.
The enamelling technique I decided to try is cloisonné. It invloves the use of thin strips of metal or wire to make cells (cloisons in French) that are then adhered to a backing material and filled in with (usually) different colors of enamel. The cloisons can be used to separate the colors, or be an important design element in and of themselves. Upon reading this article on Ganoksin, I was inspired to make a pendant after the designs on the gold rings from Kouklia in Cyprus, some of the oldest examples of cloisonné enamel ever found. The rings date from around the 13th century, BC.
For my first piece, I decided to use transparent enamel with fine silver. The technique I used to apply the enamel is wet-packing, where the grains of glass are mixed with distilled water and applied with a brush or small spatula. I made a little animated gif of the process, which goes roughly like this:
- The shaped cloisons are stuck in place, fused with a layer of clear enamel
- Wet-packing in the first layer of color. I used a fine sable brush.
- The first layer dry and ready to fire. Note the color change.
- Layer one is fired!
- This is after a few layers. You can see it’s quite high, almost to the top of the wires. I also decided to try blending from light to dark blue on the curly bits.
- Fired and looking good. The jewel tones are gorgeous! Almost finished…
- After the final firing. The wires are still a little high, but those will be ground down.
- The metal and glass surfaces have been ground down to be even with one another, and the enamel itself is finished!
- Now it’s a pendant and ready to wear.
Rainbow fluorite was highly prized by the Romans, not only for its rarity (their only source was Parthia), but also for its beautiful bands of color.
Historically, fluorite was worked into cups and dishes to best display the patterns of this relatively-soft stone. The Romans believed that wine drunk from a fluorite cup tasted sweeter. This was partially true, as the vessels were typically covered in a clear, protective resin to prevent cracks or chips–the resins reacted to the acid in the wine and actually did make the drink a bit sweeter!
The bracelet and necklace on this page are made from fine silver, with rainbow fluorite beads spaced evenly between the lengths of chain. As I always do with my chains, I cut, fused, and formed each link by hand before weaving them together while Brian drilled the soft stones one by one. This let me thread the beads directly onto the chains as I made them.
The natural banding in the stone means each set is unique. The most common shades are greens, purples, and clear with thin bands and wisps of color.
I handmade the clasps from sterling silver as well, using a toggle clasp on the bracelet and a hook/eye clasp on the necklace.